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Licorice

Safety 5/5

Glycyrrhiza glabra

Quick Answer

Licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra) brightens skin through glabridin, which inhibits UVB-induced pigmentation and tyrosinase activity. Licochalcone A provides exceptional anti-inflammatory properties, making licorice ideal for sensitive skin with hyperpigmentation. Safety 5/5 — gentle enough for all skin types.

Key Takeaways

  • Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase 16x more effectively than kojic acid in some studies
  • Licochalcone A reduces redness and inflammation without steroids
  • Glycyrrhizin soothes eczema-like irritation and calms reactive skin
  • Safety 5/5 — one of the gentlest brightening ingredients available

What is Licorice?

Licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra), known as Mulethi in India, is a plant with exceptional medicinal properties used in both Ayurveda and traditional Chinese medicine. For skin, its value lies in a trio of powerful skin-active compounds extracted from the root.

Active Compounds

  • Glabridin — isoflavonoid that inhibits tyrosinase and disperses melanin in pigmented cells
  • Licochalcone A — chalcone with potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties
  • Glycyrrhizin — triterpene saponin with soothing, anti-irritant, and barrier-reinforcing properties
  • Liquirtin — flavonoid with mild UV-absorbing action

Benefits

Skin Brightening

Glabridin prevents UVB-induced skin pigmentation through two mechanisms: it inhibits tyrosinase (melanin synthesis enzyme) and disperses existing melanin granules in pigmented cells. The compound achieves this without the cytotoxicity of stronger brighteners.

Anti-Inflammatory

Licochalcone A is one of the most potent natural anti-inflammatory compounds for skin. It inhibits leukotriene production and suppresses NF-κB signalling — the central inflammatory cascade in conditions like rosacea, acne, and eczema.

Sensitive Skin Tolerance

Glycyrrhizin strengthens the skin barrier and reduces transepidermal water loss, making licorice uniquely suitable for sensitive skin types that can't tolerate harsher brighteners.

How to Use

  • Mulethi powder face pack: Mix with turmeric and milk, apply for 15 minutes
  • In serums: Look for Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract or licorice extract
  • In toners: Used in K-beauty and Indian formulations for sensitive brightening

Frequently Asked Questions